I taped the toe piece paper template on the ski so that the front two holes in the template were aligned with the toe marks I made in Step 5. Taping the paper template to the ski. I taped the heel piece paper template on the ski so that the rear two holes in the template were aligned with the heel marks I made in Step 5. Take your time to mark the exact center of each hole. Precision takes patience. Most websites will tell you to use 3. The scary part. Remember your center punch marks made in Step 9 will help guide the drill bit into the proper location.
This allows you to take your time and get the screws in vertically. It will also identify any alignment problems or issues with driving the screws excessive torque while you still have time to fix the issue. Take care to re-align the screws to the threads that were made in each hole in Step It sounds like a lot when you read it, but in actuality it only took about an hour and a half and you get to have a few beers.
If you utilize our mounting guide, you do so at your own risk. Feel free to add comments or ask questions below. Thanks for taking the time to put this together, Jason. Definitely cool to learn how to do and hopefully it comes in handy for others who may be looking for additional info on how to mount their Dynafits. Fine tutorial. Thanks a lots Lou; I think that can I help me a lot.
But do you know de diameter need of the drill bit? If the ski mount area has metal layer use the 4. My recollection is there is metal, but I am not certain, you can drill one hole with a smaller bit first to check composition of ski.
You should clarify that the toepiece should be fully locked on to the boot when mounting the new 2. This way it mounts the boot in the center instead of rotated some amount as it is Possible with the new style binding. Is the boot center on the tlt6 marked on the sole? I see two small hash marks and of course there is the snow leopard… one of these?
Just get out your ruler, boot center is halfway between toe and heel. What do I do if the screw has stripped the dynafit binding and I can get the screw out of the binding but removed it from the ski? I just republished this, did quite a bit of editing and re-writing. If you guys see any typos or stupid mistakes, please let me know. Swiss, good idea to make a permanent template for repeated mounts of the same binding hole pattern.
I have erred in the stated mm thickness of the plastic … not very swissiphic of me. I just measured my template at 0. Seems to work pretty good and lasted a long time. Go to piss! On the other hand, perhaps I should…. I hand draw my own templates using paper with a 2mm grid marked on it.
The paper is the same stuff that children in schools use for drawing graphs on. So if i had to do it often a jig would be nice they also have been known to shift but I can make do once a year. The folded paper method of finding longitudinal center is super accurate and fast.
Sure Cris, would be glad to help. These have the predrilled insert system which makes my issue even more puzzling. I could click the heel in but it took some effort to torque the boot to line up. I read your step 9 part 2 of this article and figured this was my solution: loosen the toe, realign, and tighten.
However, after looking at the toe screws I see they are countersunk heads which means they will self-center into the binding plate when tightening down. Do you have any thoughts or suggestions? Is there some reason I feel haunted by this? If you can take the screws out of a toe unit without getting a spinner insert, then rough up the underside of the binding plates as well as the ski top surface, clean with rubbing alcohol, then re-install using epoxy both in the insert holes as well as between binding plate and ski top surface.
Usually you can get enough change in alignment with this method. If not, you have to go to more extreme methods such as egging out the screw holes. Essentially, the Dynafit ski inserts idea was good, but it was never implemented in a way that was effective, which is of course why they stopped doing it.
Sorry to hear you got involved in it, not easy. If you get a spinner insert, or strip a screw going back in, all bets are off and PHD level help is required. Thanks for the quick response. I need both at the inside position so I had to remove the heel. I removed the toe while I was at it. Side question: What are your thoughts on using a urethane based adhesive for sealing binding screws in lieu of wood glue? With the screws threaded into the toe plate there is less compliance in the screws and your pretty much limited to the movement in the toe piece alone to make any adjustment.
With a thru-hole I feel like you can also get some movement in the toe plate for more adjustment. I found one to be pretty dead on, and another to be off by about 2mm max…enough where the pins contact the edge of the boot rubber before falling into the groove.
I also discovered there is a very slight difference in my two boots, about 1mm offset at the heel. With the screws slightly loose I essentially grabbed the toe pins by hand and rotated as hard as I could while tightening the screws little by little.
I was able to get the worst case alignment to around I could probably do a little better if I use something else to torque the toe piece using the boot is tough because its hard to reach the screws. Anyways, the pins contact the edge of the rubber like my STs, but have no problem falling into the groove. I guess my next question is: how much misalignment is acceptable? I think I am okay with what i have. There is some compliance in the toe piece and heel with not much force needed which allows for the pins to align fairly easily and click in.
Jory, as with anything mechanical there is indeed a tolerance for how far the boot heel can be out of line with binding heel pins. At the least, use a sharp knife and widen the sole rubber lips so that the binding pins are more easily led into the boot heel tech fitting. As for the procedure of aligning the binding, you can use the boot as a lever, like I think I explained above. To do so you just gradually tighten the screws while placing the boot in and out of the binding, when boot is in binding lock the toe and really yard on it, to shift the screws.
Lastly, did you try re-mounting the heel unit on the whacked binding? You might be able to get a millimeter that way. Epoxy is quite common for setups that are clearly fairly permanent and the user wants ultimate reliability. I like epoxy because the bond can be easily reversed by heating the screws.
I also use waterproof Tightbond wood glue, for things such as mounting our demo bindings. No need to reinvent the wheel on this. So any glue is acting more as a sealer and perhaps adding a slight mechanical bond by filling voids. For example, a friend of mine brought his antique Manaslus here just a few months ago, to play around with a binding upgrade. I told him the first step was to see if I could get the bindings off the skis without a problem.
Sure enough, got a spinner, had to bore out the insert and put in a Quiver Killer. But I think I can manage without making those thru holes. It did cross my mind that I may be able to make up for a little bit of the misalignment by remounting the heel piece like you say.
Thanks for the info on the glues. I agree that with the Manaslu inserts the glue will most likely act as a sealer. Maybe some mechanical strength depending on the adhesive. I found one of your old articles talking about the Manaslu inserts and Dynafit claims the inserts are nylon. I highly advise all home mounters to do this, it really helps. Glad to hear you have the same thoughts on this as me.
Bottom line in my opinion is that the inserts were not good. The concept makes some sense, but the implementation was lacking. Got the bindings mounted last night. I drilled out the holes in the baseplate just enough for the screw to pass through. This made a big difference and I was easily able to get the toe adjusted so the heels are pretty much dead on with the variation being from the boots themselves.
Perhaps the screws were threaded into the baseplate slightly off and that was enough to cause the misalignment. Thanks for all the help! Several weeks ago, I plowed through mounting some bindings while smugly feeling good about my skills while also watching TV. I do not own any mounting jigs. The results were predictable. The graphics were centered on the other ski, but not this one. Off by several millimeters to the left. Filled the holes with JB Weld, waited 48 hours and hand drilled.
But again, two of the holes had wandered even though I carefully prepunched. So JB Weld again, leveled carefully with a sharp chisel, mounted heel binding with the two good holes or duct tape , colored inside holes with small black marker, and then found exact center by using a. Only the very tip of this drill bit penetrated the center of the black marked targets. Now removed temporarily mounted heel binding.
And most importantly, used the correct special ski drill bit in a drill press with a drill press vise to slowly and precisely drill the holes with accuracy and no wandering. Maybe the holes are so tight because small base plate holes make for a more solid mount when everything lines up perfectly— no twisting for alignment required. Kristian: tech tip: when prepunching binding screw holes for the bit, use a sledgehammer.
No bit wandering. Anywho, a couple of days ago while out I had to cross a creek. Managed to drop my skis into the creek twice two different runs! Bindings were fully submerged for a min. Do I need to break the bindings down and re-lube and inspect or? Any advice is appreciated. Clean water will dry out and, assuming everything is lubed alright, not be an issue.
Blowing out the mechanism with compressed air and lubricating also had a big effect on the very crude release measurements.
Thanks guys. Ya, dirt especially spring dirt can be the worst. I always try to clean my inserts and heel before clipping in. I use a voile strap and the buckle is great for both. I just carry it in my pocket. This time around a did a small variation: created a separate full template that I could overlay on the ski. Did run into one interesting problem though: dropped my glue a fairly runny silicone adhesive stuff into the screw holes and it just disappeared. I went through with the mounting procedure and got everything lined up.
But worried about the glue, I backed one screw out and it was totally dry. I looked in the hole and saw an open cavity that was swallowing the glue!
To work around this I did one screw at a time to avoid losing my calibration and dropped glue around the edges of the binding hole until it formed a bubble, then screwed back in. A little bit of glue squished out around the screw head, which made me confident I got a decent seal.
Just a thought re. It seems it is necessary to move the heel tower with the adjustment in order to access all of the screw mounting holes. In the mid position the arch of the brake covers the holes. It took me a while to figure that one out. I hope it is of some help to future DIY ers. Otherwise thank you Lou for the great instructions! Of particular note is finding ski center with the paper strip!
A real gem of a tip!!!!! Joh, yeah, quite a few bindings require moving the heel unit to access the screw heads… Lou.
Hi, I currently have Dynafit Beast bindings fitted to my skis. The choice of value is a matter of taste, skill, body strength and your weight. It was impossible to get them to work even if I was using a lot of force I could just not get the ski brakes to lock in touring mode.
After contact with Dynafit I was told that there have been some updates to that part of the bindings. The updated part is the climbing aid and in the pictures below you can se the difference that made them work just fine!
A new small ridge have been added to the casting of the climbing aid. The old one on the left for comparison! I have now been skiing the Beast 16 for almost two seasons and have not had any issues with them.
The Dynafit Beast 16 together with my Dynafit Vulcan boots simply performs as good as my regular alpine setup Being a cm tall and 73kg guy. My single complain is the fact that it can be kind of hard to switch from tour to ski mode since the ski brake latch are rather stiff when locked in and hard to brake out.
They Beasts tour extremely well to be such a ski-able pair of tech bindings but that didn't come as a big surprise. In this discipline pin toe bindings has no competition right now! The happy surprise was that they feels just like a pair of alpine bindings and not at all hard and undamped like my Plum Guide s, the later can make you believe that you bones will brake down and crack when you ski some ruff hard snow, not so with the Bests they feel damped and controlled like if I was skiing my Look bindings.
NEW for is the little brother Dynafit Beast 14! Gallery D. Y Reviews Shop Blog Contact. Dynafit Beast 16 AT bindings installation tutorial aka the green page! Menu Toggle. Some ads from Amazon to support my work and your joy A short review of the Dynafit Beast Would I recomed them to my friends?
Would I buy them agai if I needed? On a 10 graded scale I give them 9 but that -1 is only as penalty for the price tag! Press iformation PDF.
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